Hang Dead Hawaiian Style (1969) by Patrick Morgan
I happened across this book in pulpfiction the other day and picked it up because of Olman's review this past February.
This book is part of a series called Operation Hang Ten. The hero works for this group which is a government agency that recruits surfers in to it's ranks so that they can infiltrate the "criminal" surfing world. The operative is called over to Hawaii from Cali because of an epidemic of opium amonst the Waimea Bay crowd.
The hero is super overwritten - he's an outstanding surfer, independently wealthy, a top notch lover and friend to all. The story veers wildly around among set pieces with lots of exposition about keeping the surfers ethos real.
The book was fun to read but the pedestrian writing style and sketchy plotline brought down a cool pulp genre. Pick these up if you find them - these 35 year old paperbacks are deteriorating quickly.